We both loved Katherine, in the NT. It is beautiful, interesting and has hot springs where, in the afternoon when we visited, workers in their high-viz gear strolled down to the water’s edge, stripped off and immersed themselves in the warm, soothing waters.
Nitmiluk Gorge, once called Katherine Gorge, in Nitmiluk National Park is breathtaking. We went in the dry season, where the boat did not travel so deep into the Gorge, but it was amazing. The colours, stories and culture were worth it. The park is managed by the Jawoyn Aboriginal people and the Northern Territory Government and the tour was led by a Jawoyn man, who shared cultural tales and understandings. Nitmiluk means land of the cicada dreaming.
One of the stories he told was of how his people used to fish: they would pick a plant that grew on the side of the river and throw it in the water. It de-oxygenated the water, causing the fish to float to the surface, where the Jawoyn people scooped up what they needed and then sent the children in to jump and splash about, thus oxygenating the water once more, so the rest of the fish were revitalised and swam off. Now that’s sustainability!
Another story was of a very old film, one of the first in which Aboriginal actors were used and spoke in their own language. It was called Jedda, was from 1955, and was partly filmed in the Gorge. As we passed a particularly beautiful and high cliff face, the guide said that it was there the final scene was filmed. I don’t want to spoil it, even though being so old you would probably find it appalling, but apparently they really jumped! The story was based on some accurate beliefs about inter-marriage (being forbidden) and typical tribal punishment (spearing in the thigh).
This cruise is a must. We went at the end of the dry, which means it is cut short but it was beautiful, interesting and the swim in the middle is amazing – even if you are all looking over your shoulder for any signs of floating ‘sticks with eyes’. The crocodiles, we were assured, were not present at that time of the year, but we’ve all read about those tourists who found one …
Katherine is a big town with everything you need. The river is massive and when you visit the empty bed, it is hard to imagine that it frequently fills and floods the town in the wet season. Well, hard for someone who never sees that amount of rain.
The caravan park where we stayed was perfect. Pretty, wide, grassy, a great restaurant and pool, clean and spacious facilities, helpful staff – I’d recommend BIG4 Katherine Holiday Park. Loads of kookaburras.
Vast, silent and hot, the North of Australia is not for the faint-hearted. From waterfalls to rainforests, hot springs to rock formations, add deserts and chasms and gorges and more besides. There is adventure, danger and safe sight-seeing, it will all depend on you.
I will write a summary of the main regions and if you want to do them all, fast, you’ll need 18 days to get from Adelaide, to the Red Centre, Alice Springs, Tennant Creek, Mataranka Hot Springs, Katherine, Kakadu, Darwin, Litchfield, Edith Falls then on to Timber Creek, heading for Western Australia. That’s with overnight stops (I don’t drive at night) and stays of up to 3 days in some areas. You’ll have seen all the major sights, weather permitting.
The area is subject to flooding in the wet season (roughly November to April) and that will affect the route you take to get there and what you do when you arrive. We travel in a two wheel drive, towing a light van, so are limited to good roads and maybe a heavy coating of rain.
The sealed roads in the Territory are very good and well-maintained. You can hire a car or 4WD, but ‘the word’ is, that you have to take photos of the vehicle when you pick it up, to make sure you are not charged for damage not incurred by you. It is worth taking insurance out, as stones flying up can shatter a windscreen and hitting stray wildlife can demolish your front end.
By Nigel Malone (tourism NT), creative commons, via Wikipedia Commons
From Adelaide, stop at Pimba or Glendambo, before visiting Coober Pedy and then the border. Plenty of free campsites and caravan parks along this way and the free campsite at the border between SA and NT (pictured at the top) with toilets and cooking facilities, but no power is great. I will say that the NT has the best maintained toilets on campsites I have seen. Maybe stop at Erldunda , or Curtain Springs, which both have a number of facilities.
The Red Centre
The Red Centre – the desert region that holds the famous monolith, Uluru, and Kata Tjuta, another sacred site. The Centre is ancient and has a mood that I can only describe as spiritual. Like the echoing chasm of a cathedral, this roofless expanse can somehow achieve the same meeting of you and what lies beyond. On your way in to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, visit Mt Ebenezer and stay at Kings Canyon Resort/campsite in Watarrka National Park. Four days should cover the whole.
Alice Springs is the town that is closest to the Red Centre and is small and neat, with everything you need. Visit one of the Aboriginal Art galleries, or the Reptile Centre, go to the Alice Springs Desert Park for a remarkable explanation of the plants, animals and people. There are so many things to do close to the town, such as walking Stanley Chasm or Simpson’s gap. These are both short, easy walks, with beautiful views at the end and plenty of opportunities for photos along the way. Please note any requests not to photograph particular places or angles, due to cultural significance. I’ve done them both three times and have not tired of it, but noticed that it is much quicker when your children are older or not there. I wouldn’t like to try either with a wheelchair, although there is some accessibility at both. Finke Gorge is much bigger but the distance you travel is up to you – take plenty of water.
There is a road from the Red Centre to Alice Springs, the Mereengie/Larapinta loop, but much of it is unsealed and you need to check on the suitability if you don’t have a 4WD. A permit is also required for part of it. The Mereengi loop takes in Glen Helen and Hermannsburg and I am told it is scenic but have not done it.
We tried to find Palm Valley a couple of times and were unsuccessful and have not met someone who has been there. However, the pictures suggest it is possible so it’ll have to go on a bucket list.
An ideal place to stay in Alice Springs is BIG4 MacDonnell Ranges caravan park. They have great activities for the whole family, good pools and clean facilities. The ranges that cast their shadow over the park are beautiful and worth a climb if you can find a legal track. The view from Anzac Hill, over the Alice, is also worth doing and you’ll take in a bit of history if you visit the site.
Ormiston Gorge and Wallaby Rock Hole I have visited with a friend who had a 4WD so I am not sure if they are accessible without one.
If you want to experience The Aboriginal Culture, attend one of the cultural experiences. They are informative, colourful and like nothing else. I cannot include photos of Aboriginal people, as they do not like to have their photos taken or shown, and it is particularly important not to show photos of someone who has died.
There are so many other things to do – check out websites. I have friends who have not found much in the centre for them, but I love it – even the red dirt that gets into everything.
Tenant Creek and Karlu Karlu
Head north to Tennant Creek, stopping at Karlu Karlu on the way. It is right on the Stuart Highway so you can’t miss it. We haven’t stayed overnight there, but intend to next time, having seen the camping area behind the rocks. Apparently, the sunset and sunrise is stunning, although I imagine the shadows at night would be eerie. If it was quite hot, you might find that a vehicle or van without air-conditioning would be taxing before sunset.
Tennant Creek has a lot of stories and warnings, but we stayed in one of the caravan parks in town, after asking at the local petrol station. From Tenant Creek you can take the Barkly Hwy to Queensland or continue north.
A work colleague heard I was travelling north and told me not to miss Mataranka Springs. Well, I can confirm that it is amazing, extraordinary and unusual. There is a kiosk, campground and bar, if I remember. But the star attraction is the thermal pool!
We were told it was a half hour drive to Katherine from here, but it took us an hour, so remember that locals will travel faster, knowing the roads.
This is a place worth visiting for at least a couple of days. Katherine is quite large and has good facilities and there are choices of campsites and motels.
Nitmiluk Gorge, on the Katherine River, is a must and if you do the boat trip at the end of the dry you won’t go as far but you will be rewarded with amazing colours of sandstone, a swim in crocodile-free waters and tales of culture.
There are hot springs around the town and the visitor information centre, or accommodation providers will give you a map. Don’t miss them.
We saw a number of kookaburras – you might, too.
Floods are not uncommon in the wet season, so check the timing. After the wet, crocodiles are more prevalent so bathe and camp carefully.
About 40 km north of Katherine and 20km along a sealed road is Leliyn. You could do this on your way back from Darwin, if time is short.
There are a variety of walks, plunge pools and waterfalls.
Kakadu (Gagadju) National Park
World Heritage listed, Kakadu is the better known of the two national parks at this end of Australia. It is a long way in from the main highway and at the end of the dry season that trek did not have much scenery to recommend it. We stayed at Cooinda Lodge, after a fellow traveller recommended it and we were very happy with the campsite and facilities. Some of the falls were dry, so without a 4WD we couldn’t get to the water and so did not visit the northern end.
The Yellow River Cruise is a must for bird lovers and very scenic. Ubirr Rock had good walks and there are Aboriginal Cultural Centres and Visitor Centres a-plenty. We spent 3 nights here.
It’s an easy drive from Kakadu to Darwin. It took us about 3 hours and we stopped at BIG4 Howard Springs Caravan park. It is lovely and there are several people who were working in Darwin and camped there.
The information Centre is s good stop to get your bearings and work out what you want to see. Stoke’s wharf is good, Parap markets and the war museum. We heard the tunnels were very good, but we didn’t do them. Darwin is easy to navigate, small and tidy. The lookout over the “town beach” is interesting.
Litchfield National Park
A very accessible, adventurous, beautiful spot, Litchfield National Park is an easy 1 hour drive from Darwin. Berry Springs and Wangi Falls are the most famous.
You can stay at a campsite in Litchfield, but we thought it had little shade so went to Litchfield Tourist Park and had a grassed site. Shared showers, good facilities.
From Litchfield you travel via Leliyn and on to Timber Creek. You might stop here or continue to WA via Gregory National Park . If you travel on, turn off to Lake Argyle and you won’t be disappointed.
Travel safe, make sure you have plenty of water and a hat.