It was the first time we had entered Alice from the north and it was pretty, with the MacDonnell Ranges in the background.
We chose our usual caravan park – Big4 MacDonnell Range and were able to use the afternoon to plan an exploration of the East MacDonnells and then relax.
Our first day took us to N’Dhala Gorge which involved magnificent scenery on the way there and some 4WD work from the main road. It was quite a short hike and although pretty, not worth the tough drive out, with lots of corrugations and sand, unless you planned to camp there. The gorge is the site of a large collection of Aboriginal petroglyphs, but as the track has lots of rocky sections I wouldn’t think a wheelchair would get very far.
Heading back towards Alice, the next stop was Trephina Gorge and this was really beautiful.
We also stopped at the ghost gum, a 300+ yr old tree. The walk was moderate/easy with the climbing at the start and sand at the end. It is quite majestic.
It seemed like a short stop to visit Corroboree Rock, so we took the turnoff. It is a startling structure in the middle of other rock formations, so easy to see why it was used as a meeting place.
We headed back to Alice and registered online for the Parrtjima light show, that another traveller had told us about. A shuttle from near the park took us there in the early evening and, surprisingly, we saw a couple we knew from SA on the shuttle.
Parrtjima is the only Aboriginal lightshow of its kind in the world and started in 2016. It is free to enter and the displays are beautiful, but nothing can describe the stunning projection on the West MacDonnell Ranges, accompanied by a narration that explains the relationship between the people and the land. I don’t think my photos will do it justice and we watched it twice, it was so moving.
I’d definitely recommend the event as it is free, spectacular but quite small, so it’s an early night. There are plenty of activities for children to take part in.
The following day, Ellery Creek Big Hole was gorgeous and had a large body of water suitable for swimming if it had been hot enough. We saw a girl going in and her partner was filming her with a drone. The water was icy cold so sooner her than me.
An easy, short walk.
Next we stopped at Serpentine Gorge which had an easy walk in, with a still pool of water at the end and a demanding, steep lookout walk.
past earth movement is obvious
views from the lookout
views over the Ranges from the lookout
The pool of water in the gorge is so cold that it has kept people and animals from going beyond it, for thousands of years. This has meant the ecology is preserved and both life forms can get a cool drink in summer when they need it.
Close to Alice Springs, we stopped at the original Telegraph Station, which is a well-preserved station with indoor and outdoor displays, showing life from as early as 1871. It is one of the first European settlements in Stuart, later named Alice Springs. There are short walks, bike trails and a walk to/from Alice township. We walked to the top of a nearby hill to take photos of the settlement.
We were back in time to watch the sun set over the West MacDonnell Ranges.
It isn’t far from the border to Alice Springs, so we arrived before midday and had time to set up and explore the caravan park, with it’s many facilities, then plan our first day of venturing further.
We began in the town, which has plenty of shops and facilities, and although it was, uncharacteristically, almost empty of people, we read about the first hospital in central Australia and peeked through the windows to where small gatherings sometimes occur.
A bigger day followed and we started at Redbank Gorge, some 150km from Alice Springs along the Larapinta and Namatjira Drives. It is a beautiful gorge, with easy access, although it is mostly on sand, so definitely not for wheelchairs or those with dodgy ankles. It was tranquil and displayed such a huge range of colours, both pastel and bold.
A short drive from here, heading back, to the Mt Sonder lookout gave us fabulous views of the mountain and surrounding ranges.
Ormiston Gorge was about 15km away and you have a choice of walks. We took the loop, from the carpark, up the hill to the lookout over the gorge, then along the hill and returning by the river bed. This is definitely the direction to take if you do the loop, as the uphill is steep but short and aided by stone steps which never go beyond 20 without a break. Again, this part isn’t suitable for wheelchairs, but the short carpark to pond walkway is and should be done. The colours and textures of this gorge are, again, stunning. If you go around a lagoon one way, look back to see the aspect on the other side, because sometimes it is so very different, it’s like being in another location. Parts of the gorge were a seabed, 800 million years ago and geologists believe something extraordinary happened in the area 300-400 million years ago to cause the seabed to rise and turn on its side. You can easily see the layers.
We decided that, as most of Australia was in a cold snap, we’d capitalise on the 27C and heated pools and headed back for some poolside traveler tips (with slide show).
Our final day we kept light, with a trip to Anzac Hill and then out to Emily and Jessie Gaps. The first provides 360 degree views of Alice Springs township and memorial information.
Emily and Jessie Gaps were disappointing, as they are very small and it was pretty blustery, so an ideal enclosure for sand blasting. The walk takes less than a minute each time and there are very unusual rock paintings of caterpillars, which the original owners ate here, and completed by women. You are asked not to photograph them as they are sacred to the people. The towering red rock faces are beautiful, and it’s a short drive out of town to the east, but I’d see Stanley Chasm or Simpson’s Gap in preference.
On our return we came across a huge flock of red tailed black cockatoos, which are considered rare, so I was very happy to get some photos of them.
Even when it’s cool, take plenty of water and a hat with you.
Vast, silent and hot, the North of Australia is not for the faint-hearted. From waterfalls to rainforests, hot springs to rock formations, add deserts and chasms and gorges and more besides. There is adventure, danger and safe sight-seeing, it will all depend on you.
I will write a summary of the main regions and if you want to do them all, fast, you’ll need 18 days to get from Adelaide, to the Red Centre, Alice Springs, Tennant Creek, Mataranka Hot Springs, Katherine, Kakadu, Darwin, Litchfield, Edith Falls then on to Timber Creek, heading for Western Australia. That’s with overnight stops (I don’t drive at night) and stays of up to 3 days in some areas. You’ll have seen all the major sights, weather permitting.
The area is subject to flooding in the wet season (roughly November to April) and that will affect the route you take to get there and what you do when you arrive. We travel in a two wheel drive, towing a light van, so are limited to good roads and maybe a heavy coating of rain.
The sealed roads in the Territory are very good and well-maintained. You can hire a car or 4WD, but ‘the word’ is, that you have to take photos of the vehicle when you pick it up, to make sure you are not charged for damage not incurred by you. It is worth taking insurance out, as stones flying up can shatter a windscreen and hitting stray wildlife can demolish your front end.
By Nigel Malone (tourism NT), creative commons, via Wikipedia Commons
From Adelaide, stop at Pimba or Glendambo, before visiting Coober Pedy and then the border. Plenty of free campsites and caravan parks along this way and the free campsite at the border between SA and NT (pictured at the top) with toilets and cooking facilities, but no power is great. I will say that the NT has the best maintained toilets on campsites I have seen. Maybe stop at Erldunda , or Curtain Springs, which both have a number of facilities.
The Red Centre
The Red Centre – the desert region that holds the famous monolith, Uluru, and Kata Tjuta, another sacred site. The Centre is ancient and has a mood that I can only describe as spiritual. Like the echoing chasm of a cathedral, this roofless expanse can somehow achieve the same meeting of you and what lies beyond. On your way in to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, visit Mt Ebenezer and stay at Kings Canyon Resort/campsite in Watarrka National Park. Four days should cover the whole.
Alice Springs
Alice Springs is the town that is closest to the Red Centre and is small and neat, with everything you need. Visit one of the Aboriginal Art galleries, or the Reptile Centre, go to the Alice Springs Desert Park for a remarkable explanation of the plants, animals and people. There are so many things to do close to the town, such as walking Stanley Chasm or Simpson’s gap. These are both short, easy walks, with beautiful views at the end and plenty of opportunities for photos along the way. Please note any requests not to photograph particular places or angles, due to cultural significance. I’ve done them both three times and have not tired of it, but noticed that it is much quicker when your children are older or not there. I wouldn’t like to try either with a wheelchair, although there is some accessibility at both. Finke Gorge is much bigger but the distance you travel is up to you – take plenty of water.
There is a road from the Red Centre to Alice Springs, the Mereengie/Larapinta loop, but much of it is unsealed and you need to check on the suitability if you don’t have a 4WD. A permit is also required for part of it. The Mereengi loop takes in Glen Helen and Hermannsburg and I am told it is scenic but have not done it.
We tried to find Palm Valley a couple of times and were unsuccessful and have not met someone who has been there. However, the pictures suggest it is possible so it’ll have to go on a bucket list.
An ideal place to stay in Alice Springs is BIG4 MacDonnell Ranges caravan park. They have great activities for the whole family, good pools and clean facilities. The ranges that cast their shadow over the park are beautiful and worth a climb if you can find a legal track. The view from Anzac Hill, over the Alice, is also worth doing and you’ll take in a bit of history if you visit the site.
Ormiston Gorge and Wallaby Rock Hole I have visited with a friend who had a 4WD so I am not sure if they are accessible without one.
If you want to experience The Aboriginal Culture, attend one of the cultural experiences. They are informative, colourful and like nothing else. I cannot include photos of Aboriginal people, as they do not like to have their photos taken or shown, and it is particularly important not to show photos of someone who has died.
There are so many other things to do – check out websites. I have friends who have not found much in the centre for them, but I love it – even the red dirt that gets into everything.
Tenant Creek and Karlu Karlu
Head north to Tennant Creek, stopping at Karlu Karlu on the way. It is right on the Stuart Highway so you can’t miss it. We haven’t stayed overnight there, but intend to next time, having seen the camping area behind the rocks. Apparently, the sunset and sunrise is stunning, although I imagine the shadows at night would be eerie. If it was quite hot, you might find that a vehicle or van without air-conditioning would be taxing before sunset.
Tennant Creek has a lot of stories and warnings, but we stayed in one of the caravan parks in town, after asking at the local petrol station. From Tenant Creek you can take the Barkly Hwy to Queensland or continue north.
Mataranka Springs
A work colleague heard I was travelling north and told me not to miss Mataranka Springs. Well, I can confirm that it is amazing, extraordinary and unusual. There is a kiosk, campground and bar, if I remember. But the star attraction is the thermal pool!
Mataranka thermal pool – it’s as good as it looks
We were told it was a half hour drive to Katherine from here, but it took us an hour, so remember that locals will travel faster, knowing the roads.
Katherine
This is a place worth visiting for at least a couple of days. Katherine is quite large and has good facilities and there are choices of campsites and motels.
Nitmiluk Gorge, on the Katherine River, is a must and if you do the boat trip at the end of the dry you won’t go as far but you will be rewarded with amazing colours of sandstone, a swim in crocodile-free waters and tales of culture.
There are hot springs around the town and the visitor information centre, or accommodation providers will give you a map. Don’t miss them.
We saw a number of kookaburras – you might, too.
Floods are not uncommon in the wet season, so check the timing. After the wet, crocodiles are more prevalent so bathe and camp carefully.
Leliyn
About 40 km north of Katherine and 20km along a sealed road is Leliyn. You could do this on your way back from Darwin, if time is short.
There are a variety of walks, plunge pools and waterfalls.
Top Falls, Leliyn
Kakadu (Gagadju) National Park
World Heritage listed, Kakadu is the better known of the two national parks at this end of Australia. It is a long way in from the main highway and at the end of the dry season that trek did not have much scenery to recommend it. We stayed at Cooinda Lodge, after a fellow traveller recommended it and we were very happy with the campsite and facilities. Some of the falls were dry, so without a 4WD we couldn’t get to the water and so did not visit the northern end.
The Yellow River Cruise is a must for bird lovers and very scenic. Ubirr Rock had good walks and there are Aboriginal Cultural Centres and Visitor Centres a-plenty. We spent 3 nights here.
Darwin
It’s an easy drive from Kakadu to Darwin. It took us about 3 hours and we stopped at BIG4 Howard Springs Caravan park. It is lovely and there are several people who were working in Darwin and camped there.
The information Centre is s good stop to get your bearings and work out what you want to see. Stoke’s wharf is good, Parap markets and the war museum. We heard the tunnels were very good, but we didn’t do them. Darwin is easy to navigate, small and tidy. The lookout over the “town beach” is interesting.
Litchfield National Park
A very accessible, adventurous, beautiful spot, Litchfield National Park is an easy 1 hour drive from Darwin. Berry Springs and Wangi Falls are the most famous.
You can stay at a campsite in Litchfield, but we thought it had little shade so went to Litchfield Tourist Park and had a grassed site. Shared showers, good facilities.
Timber Creek
From Litchfield you travel via Leliyn and on to Timber Creek. You might stop here or continue to WA via Gregory National Park . If you travel on, turn off to Lake Argyle and you won’t be disappointed.
Travel safe, make sure you have plenty of water and a hat.
Vast, silent and hot, the North of Australia is not for the faint-hearted. From waterfalls to rainforests, hot springs to rock formations, add deserts and chasms and gorges and more besides. There is adventure, danger and safe sight-seeing, it will all depend on you.
